Portland Sewing

How to get your garments into stores: A boutique owner tells all

2012-02-06T12:15:00.000-08:00

Get garments into a store

With Gina Morris, co-owner of Radish Underground

Saturday, February 18, 2-5 pm $48

How to get your garments into a store: A boutique owner tells all

Instructor: Celeste Sipes, co-owner of Radish Underground

Saturday, Nov 6, 2-5 pm, $48

Learn how to approach stores and make a sale – that will make both you and the store owner happy.

Celeste will take you through the five mistakes most designers make and how to turn them around to make a negative into a positive on such things as:

• Communication. How and when to approach the store and how to stay in touch.

• Presentation. What items stores expect to see to explain and help sell your line.

• Quality, particularly fit and finish, so the garments are ready for purchase.

• Scheduling. What to show the store and when.

• Delivery. Making promises, making them stick and what happens if you don’t.

If you’ve never sold to a store before, Celeste will help you make your first impression a good impression. If you’ve been trying to sell without success, she will give you tips for turning it around.

London Textiles comes to Portland

2011-12-30T20:46:00.001-08:00

SAVE THE DATE!

WHOLESALE FABRIC SHOW & SALE

with LONDON TEXTILES

TUESDAY, JANUARY 10, 3:30-6:30 PM

2111 NE 43rd Avenue, Portland Oregon

In the heart of the Hollywood District

7 blocks north of the Hollywood Max station or 1 block north of the #12 bus stop at 43rd & Sandy

Park for free on the street or in the small lot north of our blue building

If you're looking for fabrics for your clothing line or fabrics you can't find in the local fabric stores, this is the place to be.

London Textiles is a fabric jobber that offers the best quality European fabrics obtained from major name design and fashion houses. Prints and solids are available in wool, silk, rayon, linen, cotton and polyester as well as special blends. Minimums are 10 yards per fabric. Fabrics are in stock and available for immediate and future shipments.

Bring a friend and split yardage if you like. We'll be there to help you learn how to work a textile show.

Wholesale Fabric Show & Sale

2011-12-04T18:18:00.001-08:00

Tuesday, Dec 6, 5-6:30 pm

Portland Sewing

2111 NE 43rd

Park on the street or in our lot north of our blue building

If you've never been to a textile show, here's a way to start. If you're looking for fabrics for your clothing line or fabrics you can't find in the local fabric stores, this is the place to be.

Rimmon and Co is a textile wholesaler and jobber, but sells low minimum yardage requirements -- typically 7-10 yards.

As a jobber, Dan Rimmon sells overstock fabric and leather from designers such as Calvin Klein, Anna Sui, Nanette LePore, Monique Lhuillier, Frankie B and others.

As a wholesaler, he has unlimited yardage of Spring and Fall 2012 cottons from Liberty Art Fabrics (formerly Liberty of London), Pickering International organics and sustainable fabrics, Blue Star Silks and Pineapple Silk sustainable, handmade from pineapple fibers and natural dyes.

Bring a friend and split yardage if you like. We'll be there to help you learn how to work a textile show.

Sewing Classes for Kids: Santa's Workshop!

2011-11-28T11:04:00.000-08:00

Greta, Kaylee and Lilia have sewn their fleece scarf gifts. Are you ready for Christmas? If not, come to Santa's workshop!

Santas Workshop http://www.portlandsewing.com/santas-workshop/

Join us for some last minute crafting projects.

Perfect for gifts for school friends or family!

For ages 6-14

Mondays, 3:45 to 5:45 pm $39 for both classes or $20 a class

December 5 – Fleece Fun. In this workshop we’ll make scarves, easy enough to make you’ll want to make more than one! Or you could make a cute hat, or an inside fleece football.

December 12 – Christmas Ornaments. Easy ornaments to make; perfect for gift giving, a hang tag on a present or hang on your Christmas tree.

Visit our website at www.portlandsewing.com for details and registration.

Portland Sewing: From beginning to advanced sewing, patternmaking and draping, we are apparel people making your sewing dreams come true. 2111 NE 43rd Ave. Portland OR 1 block north of NE 42nd & Sandy & the #12 bus, 7 blocks from the Hollywood MAX station

Job and West Coast 2012 textile show schedule posted

2011-11-23T15:23:00.000-08:00

Just posted: A list of the major textile shows on the West Coast for 2012.

To attend, you'll need a business license. And you'll need to be ready to buy wholesale. For more on how to get ready for a textile show, sign up for our next How to Start an Apparel Business class.

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Job opening: Cintas is looking production sewer with industrial sewing machine experience. Interested? Send a note to info@portlandsewing.com

Where to buy fabric & labor: Sourcing 101 class

2011-11-18T10:33:00.000-08:00

at Portland Sewing, 2111 NE 43rd, Portland Oregon -- in the heart of the Hollywood District

Saturday, Nov 19, 2-5 pm, $48
with Rachel Ancliffe, product developer for Nike,
Where will you get your fabric, trims and labor? Overseas or in the United States? Class will answer your questions about how to both, the possibilities, the process and the pros and cons. Other topics include: Duty, Quota, Agents and Agency Fees, Customs, NAFTA/CAFTA/WTO and going to textile markets.
Register at:
http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/where-to-buy-fabriclabo-sourcing-101-for-the-apparel-industry/

Full house greets Project Runway's Becky Ross

2011-11-07T13:50:00.000-08:00

Becky Ross wants to design for real women. That's her proclamation from her Sunday, Nov 6, "Brunch with Becky" at Portland Sewing.

Real women are America's average women: 5'4", sizes 14-16. "They are the forgotten majority," she said. "We have plenty of clothes for the young and slender but any for the rest of us is hard to find and, frankly, boring." Ross is on the hunt for backers who will hire her or help finance her vision for her clothing line.

Her pronouncement was met with cheers from the audience. They peppered her with questions for two hours:

What was her favorite challenge? The avant garde challenge with the middle school art students. "I got many comments on the dress with the boxes, but I liked it."

What was her worst challenge? The team challenge with Anya and Josh Mc. "I tried to be a team player but it backfired." She hated the garment that purportedly came from her but she hadn't, in fact, designed.

Who was her favorite person on the show? Tim Gunn. "He's a real sweetheart."

Was she prepared for Project Runway? She was excited and ready to win. "But no one can be prepared for the hours and constant series of challenges." She slept for a week after she returned from the contest.

Would she do it again? "It's made me a much stronger designer. I have a much clearer vision of who I am and what I want to do."

And one of those things will be to teach a special class at Portland Sewing. Look for an announcement soon!

Chicago Harper fashion show now posted

2011-10-11T15:37:00.000-07:00

Thatcher wears Chicago Harper Knit Pique Jacket with Twist Neck T-shirt and Arch Shorts. Nicole wears StudioSKB Menjou Knit Top and Adolph Pants.

Weren’t able to attend Portland Fashion Week? No problem!

You can now see the Spring 2012 lines designed by Sharon Blair and Joshua Buck by hitting this YouTube link: StudioSKB/Chicago Harper

Not all the garments were shown at Portland Fashion Week. We were limited to 8 looks. For more, visit our StudioSKB product pages.

Enjoy!

We're #2!

2011-10-07T07:33:00.000-07:00

Despite strong reviews from audience members and judges, Chicago Harper lost Portland Fashion Week’s emerging designer competition to Grishley, a Pendleton-backed women’s wear line.

Judges liked the strong design, construction and fit, but as one observer noted, most of the voting audience members were women and “they are going to vote for what they understand and can wear.”

Chicago Harper also showed Spring 2012 garments, in line with what other nationwide fashion shows would offer. Grishley’s garments were wool, more appropriate to the rainy and cold Fall weather on the day of show or “what the audience could wear today.”

But, as designer Joshua Buck said, “We’re proud to have honorable mention. Menswear is a difficult market to enter and it shows we won attention.

“What’s more important is how well we do at Portland Fashion Week Market on Sunday.” At the market, buyers can take a look at the runway and new, more ready-to-wear samples. Chicago Harper will take orders for Spring 2012 delivery.

Or as I like to say, Chris Daughtry didn’t win American Idol and look how well he did.

For a wrap-up of the emerging designer show, here’s a link to Marjorie Skinner’s article for Mercury on Design.

Photo: Michael wears the epaulet tank top and arch pants in blue plaid. photo by Rhys.

Chicago Harper sneak preview makes the news

2011-09-23T21:49:00.000-07:00

Enjoy a sneak preview of StudioSKB's Chicago Harper line from the photo shoot courtesy of Marjorie Skinner at Portland Mercury

And here's one of the shots from the photo session. More to come at:

-- Content 2011, Oct 1, Portland's Ace Hotel

-- Portland Fashion Week/Catapult, Oct 5, Vigor Shipyards on Swan Island

Kim Dawson to teach apparel marketing class

2011-09-11T09:07:00.000-07:00

Portland Sewing just chose Kim Dawson to teach strategic marketing planning.

During the class, apparel designers write a marketing plan -- a key part of a business plan.  "it's critical to figure out who you are, what you have to offer and where you can place your product to make the most profit," Dawson says.

During the class, she takes students through the 4 "Ps" of marketing, helps them prepare a strong product line that stays viable and relevant over time. 

The class takes place Saturdays, October 1-November 5, 10 am-1 pm ($189).  Dawson began her advertising career with Chiat/Day, creators of the "1984" ad for the Apple MacIntosh computer. She's been an advertising manager/director in the U.S. and Europe and sales director for an Internet start-up. 

She now owns Flaunt Business Consulting to advise entrepreneurs. 

She's taught marketing and business classes at Portland Community College.

Survival tips or 7 things we love about Paris

2011-08-27T03:46:00.001-07:00

Posted on August 27, 2011

Paris Metro: Every city should have this mass transit system.

As our quick trip to Paris draws to a close, we came up with a list of survival tips to help you should you ever visit Paris. Many of these tips reflect what makes Paris different, charming, and even lovable.
Here they are in order of importance, sort of:

1) Don’t drive. Streets are a maniacal mess with no place to park. Not even Parisians should drive in Paris. We’re shocked we didn’t see fatalities. In fact, we saw only five minor fender-benders.

INSTEAD: We love the Metro. It’s interconnected. There are 14 lines plus 4 trains reaching every part of metropolitan Paris with extensions to such places as Versailles, Giverny and Disneyland. It’s on time. Other than Bastille Day, there is a train every two minutes, 20 hours a day. It’s fast. You can get nearly anywhere within 20 minutes.

2) Don’t wear clunky running shoes. That means you’re a tourist. You won’t get service. Pickpockets will target you.

YET: We love walking. Yes, you will walk to your destinations and climb stairs at the Metro stations. Escalators at Metros and some buildings are few. Elevators nearly non-existent.

So get in shape now. And buy fashionable walking shoes. My Sofft high heels, Josef-Siebel gladiator sandals with 1-inch heels and Cole-Haan Mary Jane flats with Nike Air soles were my favorites. We walked at least five miles and climbed 100 steps a day. Our legs still are sore. But we lost weight!

3) Don’t bring a small purse. And don’t bring a backpack. You will buy and carry lots of stuff. Yet a backpack shows you are a tourist. One of our fellow students did not feel the pickpocket’s hand as he slipped her wallet out of the zipped pocket facing her back. It’s his job. He does it 24-7. A backpack is an open invitation to him.

INSTEAD: Carry a shopping bag purse. They are big, roomy and zip at the top. You can wear them over the shoulder or across the chest. You clutch them close to your side when you walk and on your lap when on the Metro. It’s very Parisian. Never put them on a chair rung or on the floor. Men should bring messenger bags.

4) Don’t expect consistent temperatures. During our visit, we had Arizona sunbake temperatures and Portland winter rains.

INSTEAD: Wear layered clothes. Bring an umbrella and a couple of weights of jackets. Do plan on bringing knit lightweight sweaters and cardigans. When the weather warms up and stops raining, you can put them in your shopping bag purse.

5) Things will cost more than you expect. The euro runs 1.65 more than the US dollar. And most stores and museums want cash. Bring a charge card for purchases more than 10 euros at larger stores. Bring a debit card to pull cash out of an ATM. A typical restaurant salad costs 11 euros 50 ($19 US); a Coke costs 4 euros 50 ($7.50 US). Water at the store costs 1 euro 20 ($2 US). And it goes up from there.

INSTEAD: We love to scrounge. If your hotel offers breakfast (= petit dejeuner), bring a ziplock bag and pack lunch (= dejeuner). Bring a water bottle and fill it up at the hotel. Bring protein bars to tide you over when you need a snack. Go to the grocery instead of the restaurant. Our favorite: a natural food store with the most immaculate produce we’ve ever seen: Seva Natura on Boulevard Arago. It’s run by Lidie and her son, Pascal.

6) Parisians don’t believe in air circulation. We went to the Fondation Yves St. Laurent on one of the hot days. Here we were, in a small room with all the doors and windows closed. And there were the workers in long sleeves and jackets. We thought we were going to pass out. They didn’t seem to notice.

INSTEAD: Use the local “alimentation” stores. Paris is a city of walkers, not drivers. France is a country focused on full employment. So every block has a fruit stand and a pharmacy. Many of these also carry hardware. So if you come here in July, immediately stop by an alimentation and pick up a fan for 16 euros. The good news: windows have no screens. That means no bugs! And you get instant air circulation with your fan.

7) Don’t assume anything and be prepared. If you need batteries for an appliance, bring extras. Get plug adapters for French electrical outlets. Bring an extra memory stick for your camera; you will take lots of pictures. Buy a museum pass card and plan to go to museums early – or late on Wednesdays and Fridays at the Louvre – to avoid crowds. Franklin-LaRousse makes an electronic French-English dictionary. Buy one; it’s smaller and faster than a dictionary. Bring a map of Paris. Learn a little French before you go.

The only thing you can assume: The French are fabulous people. Especially our friends Agnes and Peter. In general, the French you meet will tell you they can’t speak English. But the minute you try to speak a little French, they suddenly come out with full sentences in English. And they are helpful when you are lost or trying to find something.

If I can convince you of anything, it is that you must come to Paris. If you are interested in fashion, food or culture, you must experience this city. This is my third trip and I’m coming back next year with my niece, my cousin and a friend. A bientot, Paris, mon amour!

Yves - mon amour

2011-08-23T20:57:00.000-07:00

Yippee! Today we visit the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petite Palais along the Champs Elysees. Yves died June 1, 2008, but lives on as one of the world’s greatest designers.

The exhibit showed just a fraction of Yves' 5,000 original garments and 15,000 accessories in storage at his Fondation at 5, avenue Marceau in the 6° arrondissement. This is where he had his haute couture house.

Pierre Berge, Yves' business partner, and Carla Bruni, former model and now first lady of France, put together the exhibit.

No touching. No photographs. No moving closer than the guards and electric eyes protecting the garments.

Here you see all of Yves’ firsts: the Trapeze, the Mondrian, the jacket dress, the pantsuit, the tuxedo, the see-through blouse. Yves was among the first to launch a ready-to-wear line with his Rive Gauche (Left Bank) store. Other designers stayed, and for the most part still do, on the more fashionable right bank.

Yves changed fashion, everyone copied him and now these ideas and items are fixtures in most closets. Yes, even the see-through with a bra or cami underneath as you might see today at Forever 21.

His notable firsts:

- The trapeze dress. Part of his first collection for Dior in 1958, it broke away from the wasp-waisted New Look Dior had made famous in the 1950s.

- In 1966, the first ready-to-wear house set up by a couture designer.

- Le Smoking, a 1968 tuxedo jumpsuit styled after men's overalls. He famously sued Ralph Lauren over Lauren's copy of this garment and won. Again, a first. No one wins such a case since you can't patent clothing. Yves, however, won in French court, not in the U.S.

- With the Mondrian dress in 1966 he brought art into fashion. He later reprised VanGogh's Irises in a sequined and beaded jacket.- Safari jackets, tight pants (precursor to leggings) and thigh-high boots in the 1960s

- Pant suits, peasant blouses, bolero jackets and smocks in the 1970s.

- See through chiffon blouses. His models wore them bare-breasted. We wear them over camisoles.

All of this shocking, eye-opening and controversial when Yves first created them. All of this we take for granted today as if it always existed.I bought the book from the exhibit. I'll be happy to share it with you :)

Fabric shopping in Paris

2011-08-23T20:16:00.000-07:00

Rue D'Orsel -- the main street through the fabric district of Marche St. Pierre

Let's be blunt. Fabric shopping in Paris sucks.

Count your lucky stars if you live in Portland. There you can get quality fabric at good prices at so many stores: Fabric Depot, Mill End, Josephine’s, Rose City Textiles.

By the end of our stay in Paris, we were begging for a JoAnn’s. I kid you not. Thanks to previous stays, I have a list of fabric stores. Here’s a rundown.

Red alert! Don't touch this fabric! You'll be sorry!

Marche St. Pierre is the main drag for fabric. This is in Montmartre district right below Sacre Couer. Its looks match that of the fabric district in Los Angeles: Sidewalks lined with polyester so rough that it sands off your fingerprints if you touch it.

Two high points:

-- Tissus Reine, a full line of products and quality, though overpriced, products. (Solde=Sale)

-- Tissus Paris, a good variety of silks, also overpriced. For example, a meter of silk habotai (called “pongee” here) sells for 16 euros or $26 versus $10 a yard in the U.S.

Two lesser points:

-- Over-promoted Dreyfus. Five floors of so-so fabric.

-- Maison Blanc where they sell remnants (“coupons” here), 3 meters for 10 euros.

There are smaller stores in the Sentier near the Bourse, Paris’ equivalent of Wall Street. These are supposed to be wholesale, but don’t have wholesale prices. Here we found hat supplies at Ultramod, knitting and embroidering supplies at Le Droguerie and a great variety of interesting ribbons at Mokuba.

To get the best fabrics, we had to go to TissusEdre in Passy. We also went to Janssens & Janssens near rue Faubourg St. Honore.

Let’s not forget Les Perles d’Anton, a small treasure in the Marche Malassis section of Clingancourt. Flora, the owner, sells lovely buttons, appliques and authentic Chanel trims. Her husband and father-in-law worked for Chanel.

Some of these fabric are milled in Italy. But, sadly, most are made in China, as are most fabrics across the world these days.

Welcome to Paris: The Grand Tour But before you visit Paris, a few words of caution. It may seem: -- Dirty. Looking from the airport to the city,

2011-08-23T20:14:00.000-07:00

But before you visit Paris, a few words of caution. It may seem:

-- Dirty. Looking from the airport to the city, the smog is so thick, it hides the buildings. Despite the best efforts of city workers (the Men in Green) to pick up trash and scrub and wash the streets, there is a constant layer of grit on storefronts, tables, leaves and artwork. Fortunately, the dog poo situation has improved greatly since I first came here. Dog owners were finally shamed into picking up when advocates started placing small French flags into the poo.

-- Overcrowded. 3.5 million people inhabit Paris proper. That number bumps up to 6 million during the day with the influx of workers. More than 12 million live in the Paris metro area. So that’s why so many apartments and hotel rooms are so small!

-- Old. That’s the nature of the place. You can’t swing une chat morte without hitting an old statue or old building named after or created by another dead white person. In some areas, buildings are covered in graffiti, sliced to fit in new buildings and not well kept. Our local friends call these areas “exotic.”

-- Costly. No refills on coffee. Water comes in bottles, not drinking fountains. Many public toilets are pay toilets, even in cafes. Parking can cost a Parisian as much as 1,000 euros a month. And if the waiter asks if you’d like fries with that small, 5-euro salad, expect another 5-euro charge to show up on your bill.

But, clearly, people love Paris. Our friends Eugene and Christy came to work in the Mercy Corps office here for one summer. Four years later, they're still here. This, I think, is why:

-- The food is terrific. We’ve already eaten at several cafes. I can see why the ones we chose are so crowded. When time is tight, we pick up quick items from one of the many alimentations (fruit and vegetable markets) or boulangeries (bakeries). The food is routinely fresh, tasty and satisfying.

-- There is so much to see and do.

Paris is divided into neighborhoods, or arrondisements. It starts with the premiere (1°) in the middle then moves clockwise spiraling out to one of the many walls built over the years to defend Paris starting with Charles V in the late 1300s. The red circle is now a freeway surrounding Paris.

In the 1°, you'll find the heart of Paris, the Louvre and theElysees Palacewhere President Sarkozy lives with his third wife, the former model Carli Bruni. And in case Carla wants to shop, she can walk down to the Faubourg St Honore (known simply as "leFaubourg") to visit the flagship stores for Hermes, Chanel, Ferragamo and the fun stores Colette and L'Eclaireur.

In the 3° is La Place Vendome with the Ritz and the jewelers and the thought that if you need to know the price, you can't afford it.

The 4° is where all the bohemians live. These folks are known locally as the Bobos. This area most remind me most of Portland. The 4° is called "Le Marais" or swamp. These are some of the most ancient buildings left in Paris and thus the most affordable and attractive to the young, artistic, environmentally aware types. Good food and great shopping particularly in Le Place des Vosges.

Next door is the 11°, home of the former Bastille and the current best place to buy ice cream, Maison Berthillon.

Cross the Seine and you'll hit Notre Dame on the Ile de France. Paris was founded by the Parisi people who settled on this island.

On the other side of the Seine, the left bank or Rive Gauche, you land in the 5° where I've stayed many times. This is the Latin Quarter so named for all the students who lived there (and at one time, Latin was required study for all students). Here you'll find:

- Val de Grace. Louis XIII and Anne of Austria had been married many years. No children. She prayed to the holy mother for a child and promised a convent in exchange. Voila! Louis XIV. Et voila, Val de Grace – first a convent, now a school complex.

- Pantheon – or royalty once again prays and Paris gets another church. This time, Louis XV prayed to recover from gout. In return, he had the ruined church of Sainte-Genevieve replaced. The architect chose Rome’s Pantheon as a model. It’s now a “temple to the great intellectuals of France.”

- Luxembourg Gardens and Palace – Built by Henry IV’s wife, Marie de Medicis to copy her home in Florence. She also wanted to move from the existing royal palace, the Louvres, on the banks of the Seine. By 1612, the river was an open sewer. She didn’t live in her new palace long. Her son, Louis XIII, force her into exile.

- Sorbonne. Founded in 1257 by Robert de Sorbonne. Now pulls together 13 universities as the University of Paris with offices in the Sorbonne building.

Next to the Latin Quarter is the 6° and Saint Germain de Pres -- home of the art shops and galleries and the Musee d'Orsay, the museum that houses the best of the impressionists from Cezanne to Monet to VanGogh.

Moving clockwise to the 7°, you'll find the Eiffel Tower. Completed by Gustav Eiffel in 1889, it's theirst building taller than the pyramids. They held the title 4,000 years. The tower held it for 41. Eiffel went on to create the armature for the Statue of Liberty using what he learned at Le Tour Eiffel. You'll need to wade through a horde of trinket salesmen and wait two hours to get to the top. But the views are unforgettable.

Finally, my favorite arrondisement, the 8°. Napoleon's Arc de Triomphestands at the head of the greatest street in the world, theChamps d'Elysees. From the top of the Arc, you can see clear down the Champs to the Place de la Concorde where the guillotine once stood. Now it holds the grandstands for July 14's Bastille Day celebrations. Further down, you see the Tuileries where a palace once stood. Now it holds a carnival of fountains, ferris wheels and rides. At the far end you see the Louvre in the 1°, where our grand tour began.

I believe that if it exists on this planet, it exists on the Champs, in the heart of Paris. But that's a story for another day.

Arriving in Paris

2011-08-18T13:39:00.000-07:00

Nous arrivons a Paris!
12 hours in the air. At least 2 hours of lay over in Houston. 9 hours of time change forward. That’s what it takes to get to Paris from Portland. 45 minutes waiting for the bags. 15 minutes going through customs. 30 minutes waiting for the shuttle. 90 minutes to get from Charles De Gaulle airport to midtown Paris. That’s what it takes to get in town during peak rush hour. One hour later, we’re checked into our hotel. That’s what it takes to finally be at home in Paris, ready to go for a walk, find a restaurant and do some people watching. So, here, dear reader, are some cogent comments for you:

C’est une voiture. Most all are boxy and small – the better to squeeze together on the highway and make sudden lane changes

C’est une rue. Most were laid out as game trails before Julius Caeser conquered Gaul. Now they full of parked cars. All the time. Sometime on both sides. Yet drivers treat them as 4-lane highways. What’s the speed limit here? Who knows! Pedestrians beware.

C’est un boulevard. This is at 8 pm, not rush hour — at the corner of boulevards Arago and Port Royal in Les Gobilins section of the Latin Quarter. And if you get into a near fender-bender, don’t apologize. Instead, roll down your windows and curse each other.

C’est un trottoit (sidewalk). Thankfully these are nearly as wide as the boulevards. Poles separate pedestrians from speeding cars – unlike on the rues.

C’est les bicyclettes. For a few Euros, you can rent a bicycle from one of these kiosks and use it as much as you want until you park it at another kiosk. It’s becoming a popular way to commute. Strangely, bicycles use the boulevards, not the sidewalks. And the cyclists rarely wear helmets. Seems like an easy way to see the grim reaper. But we’ve yet to see an accident.

C’est un cafe. There’s one on nearly every corner, unless the other corners host a McDonalds, bank, bookstore or garden. Sometimes there are two or three more down the block. They seem to be full at more than dinner time. But I’ve yet to see an obese or overweight Parisien. And I’ve discovered the secret of their weight management system: Walk a lot (especially with a dog). Bicycle a lot. Smoke a lot.

C’est le style Parisien. You won’t see baggy hip-hop pants, overblown Nikes, hoodies or oversized sweatshirts. Not even a baseball cap, forward, backward or sideways. Young men wear casual-fit straight-legged jeans and khakis at just below the waist with dress shirts and jackets or long-sleeved pullovers. Women wear dresses, skirts or dressier pants and tops. Jewelry is non-existent or understated. Purses come as messenger bags or hobos of various sizes worn over one shoulder and to the front – to ward off pickpockets, I think. Everyone wears dress shoes. For women it’s flats, a small heel or sensible sandals. A few younger women wear Keds or Converse. No flip-flops or sneakers please – that’s how you spot the tourists.
Tomorrow — Your orientation to Paris!

Visit Project Runway's Bryce Black @ StudioSKB.com

2011-07-28T07:29:00.000-07:00

Keely DiPietro models the 3-in-1 cape, dress, skirt on www.studioskb.com

Bryce Black stars on Project Runway July 28

Can't wait to see Bryce on the start of Project Runway at 8 pm tonight on Lifetime Channel? Then look for the story in US Magazine or visit his Fall 2011 line designed for StudioSKB.
His skirts, tops, jackets and dresses drew enthusiastic applause at the April 16 Garden Party Fashion Show at Portland Sewing. They'll soon be on the racks at Radish Underground and Physical Element.
Be sure to ask your favorite boutique for a piece of Portland fashion history.

Five sewing notions you must have

2011-07-12T23:03:00.000-07:00

My five favorite notions

We all have a basic sewing kit: Tape measure, seam gauge, chalk pencil and marking pen, glass head pins with pin cushion and, yes, a seam ripper.

But there are some tools I have in my top drawer next to my sewing machine because I use them all the time. The first four give that special finishing touch that take my garments a step up to a professional look. My number one is like my right hand. I can't live without it.

I joke about these five favorite notions so much that one of my students said, "You should write an article." So here goes:

#5 - Fray Check. Also known as seam sealant. I call it "Our favorite petroleum distillate." (Another one is gasoline.) Put a line of it on the back of your buttonholes before cutting them and you will indeed keep the cut from fraying. Also use it to secure serged ends, such as the corners of napkins. Sergers can't backstitch. So think of Fray Check as a substitute. I've washed my napkins dozens of times and the corners still hold.

#4 - Buttonhole punch. Don't use a seam ripper. Spend the $10 and get one of these instead. Even better when it comes with a small hunk of oak or self-healing pad. My industrial buttonholers have what I call a "guillotine" on them to cut open the buttonhole. This punch does the same: A nice, clean cut with smooth edges.

#3 - Steam-a-Seam. It's a fusible web. You may have seen these as Stitch Witchery, Heat N Bond. Steam-a-Seam also comes in sheets and rolls. But you should choose the two-pack of 1/4" wide "Steam-a-Seam Lite." Fuse your knit hems before stitching them. It stops them from rippling. Or be like many of today's apparel manufacturers and just fuse. It's strong. It doesn't leave a mark or edge. And like I say, we'll have another Ice Age before your hem comes out.

#2 - 1/4" Wash-Away Wonder Tape. Sometimes I slip and call this basting tape because that's what it does. It bastes your seam before you sew it. But basting tape is skinny, stays in unless you pull it out and turns hard and yellow over time. Wonder Tape goes away in the first washing as in "I wonder where it went." It holds such things as pockets and bias curves on necklines and waistlines in place before you stitch them. And it doesn't gum up your needles.

#1 - Gingher blunts. Officially, they are 4" safety point scissors. But I like the name "blunts" better. I keep them on a retractable leash clipped to my collar. This way, whenever I need to clip a thread, I know where they are. I used to use pointed nippers but they kept poking holes in my clothes. Now I wear the blunts nearly all the time: During class or at the grocery store after class when I've forgotten to take them off. But what the heck. You never know when you'll have a sewing opportunity. And it's a wonderful conversation starter.

These are my top five. By the way, these aren't ads, just my personal experience.

Number 1 isn't likely to change. But I could be persuaded on the other four. So let me know: What are your five favorite notions?

Song of the day: Digging for Something by Superchunk (because that's how I feel when I'm looking for a missing tool!)

Bryce Black, Becky Ross to show on Project Runway

2011-06-27T11:29:00.001-07:00

Becky Ross (back row left) and Bryce Black (back row right) are competing on Project Runway, Season 9. Both studied with Sharon Blair.

Yes, it's true. I can now spill the beans and tell you that two of my students, Bryce Black and Becky Ross, are appearing on Season 9 of Project Runway.Bryce you know because he studied at Portland Sewing and designed for my line, StudioSKB, this year. He was featured in our April 16 Garden Party Fashion show where people applauded his modern, multiple use designs. You'll soon be able to buy his garments at Radish Underground, 414 SW 10th, and Physical Element, 1124 NW Lovejoy. Both in Portland.

Becky was in my Principles of Fit and Activewear classes at Art Institute.

Congratulations and good luck to both of them. Season 9 starts July 28.

And if you see Project Runway in your future, or you just want to launch your own apparel line, consider applying for our Fashion Forward Program. Applications are due August 17. Winners start mid-September.

Small wrapped top and varsity skirt designed by Bryce Black for StudioSKB. Modeled by Keely DiPietro at Portland Sewing's Garden Party Fashion Event April 16.

Song of the day: Back in Black

Some facts about industrial machines

2011-06-16T12:28:00.000-07:00

Q. What is the difference between my [home sewing] machine and an industrial sewing machine?

A. Let's compare your home sewing machine to an industrial lockstitch machine such as the Juki DDL-8700:

-- The Juki is much faster. Your machine sews 250-1000 stitches per minute. The Juki: 5500 spm. What makes it so fast? Industrial machines come with a 21"x47" power table with a heavy motor. The base of the machine sits in machine oil to keep it cool and lubricated as you sew.

-- The needle doesn't disengage when you fill a bobbin. It flies up and down furiously as you press the foot pedal. So make sure there's no thread in the needle.

-- The shank of the Juki needle is round. The shank of your machine's needle is flat in the back. Every industrial machine has its own style of needle while your machine's needles can be used in every home sewing machine. You can't use home sewing needles in an industrial machine.

-- Your machine threads typically from front to back. The Juki's threads from left to right.

-- The best part: You have a knee lift to raise the presser foot. Your hands need never leave the fabric. This is an option only in the more expensive home sewing machines.

Sign up for our Industrial Machine Sewing class to learn more about these machines. Prerequisite: Beginning or Intermediate Sewing.

Unraveling thread confusion

2011-06-06T10:06:00.000-07:00

Q. I'm so confused! What kind of thread should I use for sewing a skirt?

A. Here are four of the most common kinds of threads you'll see and where to use them:

All-purpose = Use for general sewing.

Best – Polyester. Use this for your skirt. Since it’s made from long, staple fibers, polyester is strong, durable and colorfast. Brands: Mettler, Gutermann.

Okay – Cotton-covered polyester. Because it is wrapped, it can shred and break. But it's less expensive and has more color choices. Brand: Coats and Clark. Don’t buy "bargains." Throw away old spools.

Cotton – Use for quilting. Not pre-shrunk so if it’s used in clothing, the seams will pucker in the first wash.

Rayon – Use for decorative stitching such as embroidery and serging. Not strong enough for general sewing.

Silk– High sheen and high-priced. Use for couture sewing.

In search of the perfect plotter

2011-05-24T10:59:00.000-07:00

About two years ago I decided to digitize my patterns.

I'd been drafting patterns for decades. But I decided I wanted to create them by computer myself. Until 2009, the wise and capable Meg Okies had been digitizing them for me. Then she got a job with a local apparel company and no longer had the time.

So upon her advice, I bought Optitex. It's the same computer pattern system used by Nike and many independent designers. The software is great and so much easier to use than Gerber and Lectra -- the systems used by other major apparel companies. We used Gerber at Art Institute.

The problem was the plotter. I asked the makers of Optitex and they sold me an Ioline Studiojet. Their pitch: It links well with Optitex and it prints four times faster than other plotters.

Ioline StudioJet -- a nightmare waste of $$

But instead the Ioline was a nightmare. The plotter cost $6000. What I received came in a box and needed assembly. Ikea has better instructions and more solid construction. The plotter felt like a Lego toy when it was set up.

And it took half a day on line working with Optitex and Ioline to get the program to communicate with the plotter. It wasn't even on the Optitex list of plotters, even though Optitex recommended it.

After two months of trying, I couldn't produce a successful plot:

-- The paper constantly jammed. Even with me standing on the back and Owen standing on the front, holding the edges, the sweep arm clipped and dragged the paper. The plotter then stalled. We had to start the plot over again -- and again without completing the plot. What a waste of paper.

-- While it printed, the line was thin and wobbly. It did not produce a clean, straight, legible line.

To meet my deadlines, I had to send my files out to others for plotting -- for a hefty fee.

After seven months of haggling and a trip to Ioline headquarters in Woodinville, Wash., I finally got a refund. But it was just $4800. And this was while the plotter was still under warranty.

My next step was to talk to Pacific Office Automation in Beaverton. They sold us a duplex unit that allows us to print color and two-sided copies.

After many conversations about the best plotter for the Optitex program, they sold me an HP510 for $3150. Compared to the $6000 for the Ioline, that seemed that a good deal. Plus it looked and felt like a plotter:

-- It was solid and well-built.

-- It produced clean, legible lines.

-- It cut the paper automatically after each plot. On the Ioline, I had to use a pair of scissors.

But it took 2 hours to get the program to talk to the plotter. And there was a 15 minute lag between sending the pattern to the plotter and the plotter starting to print. I could only plot one pattern at a time. Each plot took another 15 minutes. When I asked why, all they could say is "that's just the way it is."

It could take hours to produce eight patterns. And when we have as many as 40 students taking a class and needing a pattern -- well, you can do the math. It could take all week just printing patterns. Argh!

To the rescue came Alyson Clair, former student now colleague and owner of Clair Vintage Inspired.

She recommended Mike Isaac and A&E Imaging in Beaverton. And I have met the love of my life. No, not Mike -- although he's a great guy -- but my new HP T1200.

For $5028, it does what I had expected a plotter to do:

-- It took him about 30 minutes to make the program communicate with the plotter.

-- The plots print instantly. A typical plot takes 30 seconds to print.

-- The T1200 plots multiple copies.

-- It cuts automatically after each plot.

-- The line is strong and clear. And, wow, I can now plot in color!

-- Further, it holds two rolls of paper and senses which width it needs to use based on the width of the plot. And it has a memory. You can reprint past plots directly from the plotter without using the computer.

HP T1200 -- the new love of my life

It's like having a two-year headache, then waking up one day to find it gone. The sun is out. The birds are singing. And it's a wonderful day.

If you have your own plotter sagas to share, please send them my way!

Portland Sewing's new pattern classes start July 25 with our summer camps. We'll offer computer patternmaking again this Fall. Send me note if you want on the mail list.

Song of the day: Baby Lee by Teenage Fanclub

Latest pix from Garden Party Fashion Show

2011-05-03T13:34:00.000-07:00

Our Bryce Black has just been interviewed by you-know-who and may be going to you-know-where.

So here's a chance to see some of his fabulous garb before he appears on the small screen.

Bryce was one of the designers featured at Portland Sewing's April 16 Garden Party Fashion Show. His collection was inspired by the movie and documentary "Grey Gardens."

All photos are from Rachel Warren courtesy of Eden Dawn's Shop Talk blog for Portland Monthly. For more about the show visit the Portland Sewing Facebook page. You'll see a link to the Portland Monthly story and photos from the other designers: Alicia Wood, Alyson Clair, Robin Forsythe, Tiffany Bean, Stephanie D and Vien To.

I'm on a budget -- what kind of sewing machine should I buy?

2011-04-26T14:09:00.000-07:00

Sewing tip

Q. I would like to ask what you think about the Brother sewing machines available at Costco.

A. Thanks for asking. I seriously avoid the Brother, Kenmore, Singer and White machines sold at Costco, Sears, JoAnns and Walmart.
Sadly, they are made of cheap plastic in China. They don't sew well and quickly quit making some stitches -- leading the sewer to think it's her fault when it is the machine. And no one will fix them.
If you're on a budget, you might consider the Babylock Anna http://www.babylock.com/a-line/anna/
It's made of ballistic plastic and metal in Japan or Taiwan and costs about $199.95. Babylocks and Janomes make well-built starter machines. Montavilla Sewing Center and other sewing machine stores carry them

Praise for Lisa Silveira

2011-04-09T23:06:00.000-07:00

Sharon,

I just completed the Learn to Sew series, under Lisa's instruction. It was
such a wonderful and satisfying experience (even the frustrating bits).
Lisa was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and patient. Lisa seem to have a
knack of providing excellent instruction while still allowing us to make
our beginner mistakes (and then patiently helping us fix them).

While I would like to believe that her attention was specific to me, I
noticed that she offered the same level of attention to everyone in the
class.

I really enjoyed her class and feel lucky to have received such great
instruction.
-- Cheryl

Fashion show boosts Portland fashion community, women's shelter

2011-03-29T12:19:00.000-07:00

Everybody needs a sanctuary in these troubled times – a place of joy and hope for the future.

Saturday, April 16 brings such sanctuary to Portland in the form of a hopeful vision for the city’s fashion business.

On that day, Portland Sewing brings together eight emerging designers for a “Garden Party Fashion Event.”

“Part of our vision is to create a market center for the apparel industry here in Portland,” says Portland Sewing owner Sharon Blair, “We have so much talent here, why not?”

Portland Sewing, 2111 NE 43rd, is a prep and finishing school for those seeking jobs in fashion design and the apparel industry. It offers classes from beginning sewing to patternmaking, fashion design and apparel business – from how to start your own business to hiring sales representatives.

Many of Portland’s designers have studied with Blair, including those featured at the show. Two students, Gretchen Jones and Janeane Marie, have gone on to compete on Project Runway.

Designers featured at the garden party event are:

-- Bryce Black, Grey Gardens. StudioSKB is Sharon Blair’s line of clothing. This year she is turning it around and using the label to launch a designer a year. This year, the designer is Bryce Black. Black soon will graduate from Art Institute. His clothes have been featured in Portland Monthly. His Fall 2011 collection, Grey Gardens, set the tone for the garden party fashion event. It is inspired by the documentary and film about Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis’ relatives.

-- Alicia Wood, Ms. Wood. Wood studied at Parsons before coming to Portland and Portland Sewing. She combines draped kimono sleeves with fabrics such as silk, chiffon and leather. Her line includes obi belts, hats, bags, jewelry and handcrafted shoes. She was named Best Emerging Designer of 2010 at last year’s Portland Fashion Week.

-- Alyson Clair, Clair Vintage Inspired, aims to flatter all womanly figures. Her line ranges from XS to XL and is made primarily of knits. “I take a lot of pride in the fact that my entire line is designed and manufactured right here in Portland, Ore.,” she says.

-- Nyla Jano’s Torrain line of accessories was inspired by a trip to Cambodia. She recycles rice bags into purses, wallets, handbags and backpacks. She wants to encourage style mixed with a global conscience.

-- Robin Forsythe, Estate, sells her clothes at Portland boutiques Union Rose, Sofada and Tumbleweed. Estate upcycles fabrics to create apparel from existing fabrics, preferably made from natural fibers. She chooses subdued colors and textures.

-- Stephanie Dong, Stephanie D Couture. She uses her bachelors degree in apparel design to create ready-to-wear, bridal and custom-made garments. After five years in the business, she is in the process of opening her own boutique.

-- Tiffany Bean, Tiffany Bean. Owner for five years of Mabel and Zora, a boutique in Portland’s Pearl District, Bean is launching her eponymous line at the garden party event. She describes her line as “inspired by Doris Day and James Bond movies. My line has a 1960’s influence, bright colors, bold prints and flattering, feminine silhouettes.”

-- Vien To, Vien. Her well-constructed silhouettes are sold in boutiques in Salem, Ore., and will soon be sold in a boutique of her own. She earned her apparel degree in 2009.

The interior of the sewing school will be turned into an indoor garden featuring bird-friendly plants.

Proceeds go to Peace Garden at Coburn Place Safe Haven – a women’s shelter. Coburn gives women who have suffered from domestic violence and their children a sanctuary where they can start anew.

Garden Party Fashion Event

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Doors open @ 7 pm; Show starts @ 8 pm

$10 in advance; $15 at the door

To buy tickets, go to: Fashion Show Tickets

PRIVATE SEWING LESSONS OFFERED!

2011-03-11T16:24:00.000-08:00

Portland Sewing announces

Private Sewing Lessons

Saturdays, 1-5 pm$35/hour

Have a new machine an
d
don't know how to use it? Get to know your machine. Learn all the parts, how to thread it, make a bobbin and solve problems, Find out what thread and needles to use while making a guide to your machine's stitches.Open to all makes and models of machines. All sessions are one-on-one.Book your spot now! Just let us know which Saturday, what time and the make and model of your machine when you register.

Summer Wick shows off the lovely robe she just made in Learn to Sew 2 with instructor Megan Kissee.

How to de-wrinkle tulle + latest projects

2011-03-08T12:09:00.000-08:00

Q. Can you tell me how I can iron tulle if it's all wrinkled? Can I just use a pressing cloth & low
heat? I have never used it in a sewing project before, but I would like to try using it.

A. You are right to be cautious. Tulle can be made from primarily silk, polyester or nylon. If it is a 1/8' mesh and is inexpensive, it's likely to be nylon. And if it's nylon, an iron can melt it. So yes, you can use low heat and a press cloth. But better yet, hang it on a shower curtain in a steamy bathroom or use a steamer.

And now, here are the latest products from some of our students at Portland Sewing:

Margie Yap shows her finished Dietrich dress in rayon knit. She made it in two sessions during Intermediate Sewing: Knits using a Portland Sewing pattern.

Keely DiPietro shows off the back of a jacket she designed (thanks to Fashion Design

class), patterned (in Pattern 3 class) and made (she's in Tailoring now) using fabric consigned from Janeane Marie (former student and Project Runway contestant).

Janet Rivera is proud of the apron she made in Learn to Sew level 1. Students in LTS learn basic survival stitches while making their aprons. They also learn techniques used in the apparel industry while they become friends with fabric, commercial patterns and their sewing machines.

Making a wedding dress.

2011-02-15T12:44:00.000-08:00

Q. The sister of a good friend of mine is getting married, and wants to have me make her wedding dress. Since I have never really done this before, I'm not quite sure where to start. She's on a tight budget. Fortunately, the 2 styles that we picked out for the dress are not complicated. The basic structure is a v-neck (possibly sweetheart neckline) tea-length dress with straps, maybe bias cut, maybe with princess seams. The major requirement is that she doesn't want it made of polyester or another synthetic material. So we'll be looking at silks, silk-hemp blends, maybe silk-linen. I sure would love your advice.

A. To keep to her budget, let's start by keeping the cost of fabrics, trims and notions below $100. The two of you should search through the bridal/evening gown section of the Vogue pattern book. Choose the pattern size based on her body measurements for bust, primarily, then waist and hip. Look for the body measurements chart in any American pattern book — they are standard.

Stay away from silk hemp or silk linen. They're more expensive and wrinkle. Go to silk dupioni instead. It’s typically less expensive and easier to sew. Be sure to serge/zigzag the edges to prevent raveling. Stay away from silk charmeuse or silk satin unless you are experienced. It's more expensive too.

Josephines and Fabric Depot have nice silks. But you'll get a better price on the silks at Mill End-Milwaukee. Use your JoAnns coupon to get 25% off your Mill End purchase. Buy an extra yard or two just in case.

Plan for two fittings: One in muslin because you are likely to alter the pattern. One in fashion fabric. Leave one-inch side seams just in case. Add a contingency clause (extra $50) for a second muslin fitting in case there are major changes. The rest goes to your time (cutting, sewing, fitting, consulting, alterations). If you can keep your work to under 20 hours, you can make money.

Want to know more about starting and running an apparel business? Then look for our apparel business classes on www.portlandsewing.com. The next round start in April.

Good luck -- Sharon@portlandsewing.com

Cute dog gets new duds

2011-01-01T18:17:00.000-08:00

Deeg the dog proudly shows off one of her two new dog coats during a recent walk in the park.

Owner Hyun Joo Kim had just finished the Beginning Sewing 3 class when she decided to take on this project. With its mix of camouflage cotton and polar fleece, it was a bit trickier than the fabric Kim used for her Beginning 3 project. And then, there was the issue of fitting a pattern to a dog.

“While I made a lot of mistakes, [the second one] came really better looking and it fit my dog. I am very pleased.”

Kim admits that the Boston terrier-pitbull mix “is the love of my life.”

If you could ask Deeg, we bet she would say the same about Kim. She’s so toasty now in her new coat, that even on a cold December day, she can take a moment to stop and smell the roses.

Kim plans to take patterning, draping and more sewing class in 2011.

Happy Holidays!

2010-12-21T19:30:00.000-08:00

Here's a wish that you and yours have a warm, safe and happy holiday. Thanks for your support of Portland Sewing and giving us a successful first year in our new building at 2111 NE 43rd -- in the heart of Portland's Hollywood District. Here's to 2011 and another year of "building the fabric of goodwill."

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NEW ITEM! RULER PACKS!

Quilted, reinforced cases to carry your patternmaking rulers. From Margie Yap of Sweet Persimmon. $18.

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Portland Sewing is closed for the holidays through mid-January. We're working on the Fall 2011 StudioSKB line. Look for photos on our Facebook page soon and a Spring fashion show.

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Our website is open 24/7 with spots still left in many of the classes that start the week of Jan 17, 2011.

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Please order gift certificates by Wednesday, Dec 22 if you want them to arrive by mail by Christmas. You can order them on line in amounts of $30, $75, $99 and $200. Your giftee can use them to buy classes, notions, designer fabrics, sewing machines, sergers -- and more

Happy sewing! -- S

Portland Sewing answers growing interest in art and business of making clothes

2010-11-25T20:12:00.000-08:00

From Neighborhood Notes by Jennifer Coughlin

Sharon Blair might be considered the pioneer in the sewing studio movement in Portland. After establishing her career as a clothing designer and seamstress, she opened Portland Sewing in 2002. She stuck to the basics in sewing and pattern making in the beginning, but found that her students were asking, “what next?” She said that the expansion of her offerings has grown organically out of the needs and requests of her students. She says the goals of her students usually fall under one of three categories.

“They are usually people who want to start up their own line or apparel business, people who want good quality clothes that actually fit them, or people who want to express their individuality, but also want clothes that are well made.” She doesn’t see the interest in sewing so much as part of the “DIY” movement in Portland, but more as a sign that Portland is becoming a burgeoning apparel center. That has led her to expanding her offerings this year to include two certificate programs on how to start your own apparel business. She has put together classes teaching students how to start a business, deal with city and state regulations, how to source fabrics, how to create patterns both by hand and on a computer and more.

“I teach the skills to make successful apparel people,” Blair says. “My job is to get them to a place where they don’t need me anymore.” She says that her greatest professional success has been found in helping others to succeed.

Portland Sewing has classes for everyone, not just those looking to make a career in apparel. Kid classes, fashion illustration, draping and pattern making, as well as sewing classes from basic to advanced, they also have a “Speed Dating with a Sewing Machine” class. In it, people can check out 10 different machines in a three hour period to find the machine that is right for them before buying one. Housed in an old credit union building, Portland Sewing also features a notion drive-thru.

“If it’s 9 p.m. and you’re in your PJs finishing a project and run out of thread,” Blair explains, “You can just drive up and buy it without getting out of your car!”

New! Portland Sewing Gift Certificates

2010-11-23T10:00:00.000-08:00

Last 2 business classes of 2010

2010-11-16T09:24:00.000-08:00

Don't let 2010 pass without getting your apparel business started! Come to:

Sourcing 101: Where to buy fabric and labor for the apparel industry. Get the straight scoop on where and how to acquire textiles, trims and people to sew your garments and accessories. Jennifer Sims, product developer for Adidas will talk about the process, pros and cons and how to open doors to wholesalers and jobbers.

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/where-to-buy-fabriclabo-sourcing-101-for-the-apparel-industry/

Finding and hiring a sales representative. Who is going to help you sell your garments? You're busy enough designing and making them. Here's a rare opportunity to discover where to find a good rep, what they do, how much they cost and how they make money for you. At the end, you'll walk through a contract so you are totally savvy about this part of the apparel business.

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/finding-and-hiring-a-sales-representative/

Hit this link for our complete list of 2011 classes:

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/apparel-certificate-apparel-entrepreneur/

STILL ROOM IN THESE APPAREL BUSINESS CLASSES

2010-11-09T09:38:00.000-08:00

– Make a Profit: Costing and pricing with Laura Tempesta, product developer for Nike: Saturday, Nov 13, 2-5 pm

– Where to buy fabric & labor: Sourcing 101 with Jennifer Sims, product developer for Adidas, Saturday, Nov 20, 2-5 pm

– Finding and hiring a sales representative with Tracey Forrest, co-owner of True Collaborative, Thursday, Dec 2, 6-9 pm

Go to www.portlandsewing.com and look under the “Apparel Business Classes” tab for more info and registration!

Gretchen Jones wins Project Runway!

2010-11-09T09:36:00.000-08:00

Congratulations to Gretchen Jones, winner of the eighth season of Project Runway! She is the second Project Runway contestant to study with Sharon Blair, director of Portland Sewing. ( The other was season seven contestant Janeane Marie.)

Interested in competing in a fashion contest? Or just creating your own line? Check out the lineup of draping, patternmaking and sewing classes for Winter 2011. Come to a series of Rehab sessions. Or come to the PS boot camp we’re setting up by contacting us at sharon@portlandsewing.com

French-American kids sew @ PS

2010-10-31T10:50:00.000-07:00

Last week we had two groups of middle schoolers study at Portland Sewing. Thursday, illustrator extraordinaire Julie Grasher led 11 students through creating a concept board and designing for a customer. It was such a delight to hear 6th-grader Lara Rix present her board with, "My client is Amelia Templesman. She's 28 and sells real estate. She travels to the Galapagos and loves her chihuahua, Pookie." So creative!

Monday, the group in 6 hours went from learning how to thread a machine to making a messenger bag. Here are their happy results:

: From left: Nikita Swinnen-Galbraith, Lara Rix, Camille Bales, Mia Baudey, Katerina Rusa

Not to be left out, the adult group in an evening class finished their blouses. Here's Annick Blomdahl showing off her well-fitting garment.

: Beginning Sewing 2, Weds pm class

Classes next up for Portland Sewing:

"How to get your products into stores: A boutique owner tells all"

with Celeste Sipes of Radish Underground, Saturday, Nov 6, 2-5 pm, $48

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/how-to-get-your-garments-into-a-store/

"Couture Jacket" with Sharon Blair, Thursdays, Nov 4-Dec 9, 6-9 pm, $149

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/how-to-get-your-garments-into-a-store/

-- "How to get your products into stores: A boutique owner tells all" with Celeste Sipes of Radish Underground, Saturday, Nov 6, 2-5 pm, $48

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/how-to-get-your-garments-into-a-store/

-- "Couture Jacket" with Sharon Blair, Thursdays, Nov 4-Dec 9, 6-9 pm, $149

http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-classes/chanel-jacket/

Designers! Sell your garments to stores

2010-10-30T21:07:00.000-07:00

How to get your garments into a store

A boutique owner tells all

Learn how to approach stores and make a sale – that will make both you and the store owner happy.

How to get your garments into a store: A boutique owner tells all

Instructor: Celeste Sipes, co-owner of Radish Underground

Saturday, Nov 6, 2-5 pm, $48

Learn how to approach stores and make a sale – that will make both you and the store owner happy.

Celeste will take you through the five mistakes most designers make and how to turn them around to make a negative into a positive on such things as:

• Communication. How and when to approach the store and how to stay in touch.

• Presentation. What items stores expect to see to explain and help sell your line.

• Quality, particularly fit and finish, so the garments are ready for purchase.

• Scheduling. What to show the store and when.

• Delivery. Making promises, making them stick and what happens if you don’t.

Fun at Portland Sewing

2010-10-14T21:42:00.000-07:00

Just took some snapshots the other day with my I-Phone of folks at Portland Sewing. It was Monday night, so it was the final session of Lisa’s level 1 Learn to Sew class. Students were completing their aprons. Some had never sewn before. Here are some shots of Zachary Michaud and Jessie Weitzel.

Then Melinda Conway sent me these photos of her kids wearing the kid-sized apron she made for them. She sewed this one because she had made one for herself in a summer class and they said it was the “most beautifulest thing they had ever seen.” Here’s Tristan and Sequoia. Melinda also blogged about her experiences. Here is the link to her site: http://timecapsuleeighties.blogspot.com/2010/09/ beginner-sewing-and-knitting-taking.html

In my room, we had a fitting. Then the Pattern 1 group started altering their torso slopers based on the changes we found in the fittings.. The torso sloper is the base for making such things as a blouse, dress, jacket or coat. Keely, from the morning group, had set to work immediately on making a blouse. Here are shots from the evening group.

From left to right: Annick Blomdahl, Emily Lippman, Karen Davis and Cindy Persson (love that tat!).

Thought you’d like to see what we’re up to on a typical Monday night. Enjoy!

Jennie Kalberer of Portland Ten teaches class @ Portland Sewing

2010-10-05T16:17:00.001-07:00

It’s not enough to create a great product — or service. You need someone to buy it. Jennie Kalberer of Portland Ten shows you how to:

Finding customers: Market Research 101 (Saturdays, Oct 16, 23 & 30, 2-5 pm, $98)

In her three-week class, you will learn:

– Who the people are that you need to target.

– How many of them are out there.

– What they need and want.

– How to shape your product to meet their needs.

– How much they are willing to pay for your product.

At the end of the three weeks, you will have the tools to:

– Find current and potential customers.

– Expand into groups of buyers you haven’t considered.

– Figure out how to reach them and, better yet, talk to them.

– Determine the right shape for your product and how to get it into the right place, at the right price and the right amount.

Jennie Kalberer is the founder and owner of Kalberer Consulting, LLC. She consults with start-ups, entrepreneurs, and small businesses to help them raise funds through venture capital and angel investors, increase sales revenue, strategize growth opportunities and streamline business practices. She is a life-long entrepreneur and worked in design before receiving her MBA in Finance from the University of Portland.

She and Portland Ten have created a mentoring program that provides 50-100 hours of one-on-one advising and peer support and helped participants raise venture capital, revenue and sales. They are in the midst of launching their Fall program.

To learn more and register for her class, go to http://www.portlandsewing.com/apparel-business-classes/finding-customers-market-research-101/

Start an apparel business: What you need to know

2010-10-03T19:18:00.000-07:00

Learn the basics of setting up your apparel business: How to protect your name, set up your infrastructure, deal with the city, state and taxes, do business with other apparel businesses, get into textile and trade shows, find out about EIN, RN other acronyms, rules and regulations — what to do with them and much more.

with Sharon Blair of Portland Sewing, Saturday, Oct 9, 2-5 pm, $48

Paloma Soledad reveals her Mythaus designs from Pattern 3

2010-10-03T19:09:00.000-07:00

Hey Sharon! Margie looks great!! I sure miss those ladies. Hope your trip to Paris went well. Here are some photos of the dresses I made from your classes. -- Paloma

Protect your ideas class this Saturday!

2010-09-28T10:51:00.000-07:00

Protect Your Ideas: Basics of Intellectual Property

How can you protect your ideas? What can you protect and how can you protect it when it comes to apparel? Learn the difference between patent, trademark and copyright. Walk through the process and cost for getting each. Find out what happens if you just put a “patent pending” or (c) or (TM) on an item without going through the process and cost. Bring all your questions for a lively discussion!

Instructor: Nancy J. Moriarty, attorney, Chernoff, Vilhauer, McClung & Stenzel, LLP

Saturday, Oct 2, 2-5 pm, $48

MARGIE YAP SHOWS OFF HER DESIGNS

2010-09-27T11:09:00.000-07:00

MARGIE YAP SHOWS OFF HER PATTERN 3 DRESS AND JACKET

The occasion: Her son’s wedding

The idea: She went through Pattern 1, 2 & 3. Made the shell in Pattern 3 to see what looks good on her. Then did her research on Audrey Hepburn, Givenchy, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and the little black dress.

The process: She used her torso sloper and made three prototypes before coming up with the pleat front linen bias dress with the deep-V back. She used her bodice sloper for the bolero jacket with Napoleon collar and cuffed short sleeves. BONUS: Finger pockets in the French darts for a hanky.

She sewed the garments in a series of Rehab sessions.

The result: Plenty of compliments, “Where did you buy that dress?” and amazement when Margie proudly told them she was the designer and creator. And then she got requests. Margie plans to make other dresses from her finished pattern.

The question: What do you think of Margie's design? Love to hear your feedback!

How do I protect my ideas? Patterns? Books?

2010-09-24T13:39:00.000-07:00

Q. Good to run into you the other week. I wanted to talk to you about published work. Right now it's just some patterns and grading, and I was wondering if you had anything of that natured published before. It's for a sewing book. Just wanted to know things to look for in a contract and things to watch out for.

A. Put a copyright symbol and month/date on all your patterns and instruction books. As for books, expect a shelf life of 18 months and 3 cents on every dollar they earn. Find out how they are going to track sales and how you are going to see those reports. Will they give you an advance? How does that affect your pay and royalties?

Then get these books: Publish your patterns! : how to write, print, and market your designs / Nancy Restuccia. Writing nonfiction : turning thoughts into books / Dan Poynter. Both are available at Multnomah County Library.

BTW -- I'm having a lawyer talk about Protect your ideas: Basics of Intellectual Property on Saturday, Oct 2, 2-5 pm ($48). This is Nancy's specialty and she would be able to answer all your questions that I, as a non-attorney, cannot.

Good luck!

Shirt class leads to success

2010-09-24T13:31:00.000-07:00

Hi Sharon,

I'm just writing to thank you for your wonderful classes. Yesterday morning I put the finishing touches on my second-ever shirt. I made the Perfect Shirt adapted for short puff sleeves (petite version of the draft from Pattern 2) - and of course I couldn't wait to wear it. Within the hour I received an enthusiastic compliment on it from a stranger. Thanks for teaching me great skills, and for making my day!

Alison

PS -- I'm finishing up a seersucker shirt for my husband right now!

Knit a scarf in two hours

2010-09-21T14:12:00.000-07:00

Fifteen people stood and watched. And all Lisa Silveira was trying to do was set up her knitting machine. By the time she had started knitting, they had brought up chairs so they could sit and watch.

Lisa drew a crowd at Sunday's Open House to showcase apparel and sewing classes at Montavilla Sewing Center. "I think it's fascinating to see how easy it is and how beautiful the results," said Joyce, who sat behind Lisa's left shoulder." Within two hours -- despite interruptions! --Lisa had created a soft turquoise neck scarf with three cables.

"I wouldn't buy sweaters anymore if my wife could do this," one watcher said. His wife took one of Lisa's class flyers.

The next machine knitting class starts Tuesday, Oct 26, 6-9 pm

In 6-weeks students learn how to cast-on, cast-off, striping, increasing, decreasing, ribbing, and cables. Students put together a notebook of knit swatches as well as create a piece of wearable knit.

"No need to own your own machine," Lisa says. Portland Sewing provides the machines and tools for this class. "No experience required, just enthusiasm and desire to create your own knit garments in far less time than hand-knitting!"

Lisa specializes in knits and studied knitwear in Italy. Most recently, she created garments for Wendi Martin under the WeMa label.

Knitting by machines is one of a dozen classes Portland Sewing is offering this Fall.

Go to www.portlandsewing.com to learn more.

Portland teen wins $1000 Fashion Design Scholarship

2010-09-20T13:09:00.000-07:00

Stephanie Linn just landed a future in fashion design.

The St. Mary’s Academy student won a scholarship contest and $1,000 worth of fashion design classes at Portland Sewing, an apparel design and sewing school in northeast Portland.

As a result, she will create a portfolio that could land her entry to the fashion design institute of her dreams.

“As cheesy as this sounds, fashion is truly my passion,” Linn says. “I have recurring dreams of meeting [designers] Karl Lagerfeld and Nicolas Ghesquiere, and after returning from a trip to New York with my dad, I can't stop thinking about Parsons and FIT. The truth is I can't see myself doing anything other than this.”

Parsons and Fashion Institute of Technology are two internationally recognized colleges for fashion design. Their alumni include designers Donna Karen, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs. Parsons is featured on the television show, Project Runway. Both schools require portfolios as part of an admissions application. A good portfolio can also help win a scholarship to such colleges.

The contest was open to full-time students in Portland area high schools who had a GPA of 2.5 or more. Each contestant created an original apparel design idea with sketches, interviews of influential people and an essay on fashion design.

Judges included Marc Murfitt, fashion buyer for Mercantile, Jennifer Baggett, product developer for Fred Meyer, and Laura Tempesta, product developer for Nike.

The judges chose Linn’s entry because of the richness and maturity of her concept. “It was fresh, original and complete,” one judge said. “It was sweet yet functional,” another said. “I would wear these garments.”

The scholarship was created in honor of Holocaust refugee Elisabeth Marie. In 1939, she fled Nazi-occupied Austria. She found her way to Portland where she opened a custom clothing business and became one of the first patternmaking instructors at Portland Community College.

Sharon Blair also taught patternmaking at PCC before founding Portland Sewing in April 2010. Portland Sewing is the first of its kind school in Portland. “We offer a range of beginning sewing classes for those who’ve never touched a machine to those who want to make patterns or learn how produce a professional garment or start an apparel business,” Blair says.

“We also see ourselves as a prep and finishing school for those seeking jobs in fashion design and the apparel industry.”

Blair studied in Paris, has a bachelors and masters, and advanced studies in apparel design and construction. She also owns two clothing lines, Studio SKB and SKPDX.

Some of her students have gone on to study at Parsons, FIT and the Art Institute of Portland. Two have competed on Project Runway.

PDX COLLECTIONS -- PHOTOS FROM THE FASHION SHOW

2009-06-18T10:10:00.000-07:00

Hot fashions in an industrial setting. Models strutting while rusty railcars roll by. This was the setting for the first PDX Collections fashion show, Sunday, June 14.

To see the show, visit www.studioskb.com. You'll see fashions from Sharon Blair/StudioSKB plus Adam Andreas, Carolyn Hart, Alyson Clair and Janeane Marie. Enjoy!

WRITING FOR MAGAZINES

2009-06-18T10:06:00.000-07:00

Hi Sharon! I am writing to ask you some questions about writing articles for sew and craft magazines. I saw your "Hems in a Hurry" piece in Threads, and since being laid off last month :( I am looking for anyway I can to supplement my income. I don't see myself writing informational and or instructional pieces so much as fun, easy and cute things that can be made with recycled fabrics etc.
Are there any tips you could give me to help my ideas stand out from others? Do you supply the photographs as well as the instructions? How much could I expect to be paid for something like this? Also, if you have any contact information or any other tidbits of info you think I could use I would appreciate it so much!
Thank you Sharon, you are my powerhouse of knowledge! -- VM

Dear VM -- So sorry to see that you've been laid off. Ugh! With luck, the economy will turn around soon.
Contact the editor for the magazines of interest to you. Get a copy of their editorial guidelines. Make a list of topics you'd like to write. Choose the one you think is most appropriate to them and where you feel the strongest. Make sure they haven't had a story about it recently. You can do this on-line. If they've had such an article in the distant past, be sure to get a copy so whatever you write is not the same -- better that it is new and improved!
Then choose an article you like from the magazine. It doesn't matter what it's about. Write your article in the same style and format. This lets the editor know that you will fit in. Write tight in short, declarative sentences. Need a reference? Look up William Zinsser's "On Writing Well."
Then send a pitch per their editorial guidelines. Sometimes this is just a paragraph. More often it's an outline that shows them you know what you're talking about and can give them a complete article. And hey, you've pre-written the article, so creating the outline will be easy.
Be ready to give them visuals. Sew up samples and send in pictures to show how you'd illustrate the article.
Understand that the editor could change things dramatically. No worries, they are just trying to please their readers. You just work with them to make it accurate. Be prompt and easy-going and they'll ask you to write for them again.
BTW -- This does not pay well. But any money these days is a good thing, right?
Good luck and let me know how it goes!

Answers to your serger questions

2009-06-18T09:58:00.000-07:00

Hi Sharon,

Thank you for teaching us the Sergery 1: Basic Serger class Saturday. Even though I have used my serger for a number of years I did learn some new things in class. Would you please remind me of the types of serger thread cones are the best to use. I checked all of my cones when I got home and found them to be TruLock. -- A

Dear A -- Glad you enjoyed the class and got something from it. Maxilock is the thread I recommend for consistent, top-quality results. But go ahead and use your TruLock until it's depleted -- or give it away. SCRAP and Goodwill donations give you a tax deduction.

Hi Sharon -- My serger is a hobby lock made for Pfaff from the 1980’s. In order to do the gathering/ruffling and other fancy things with the serger do you think that I should trade up for a newer model with a differential drive and the miscellaneous feet attachments that come with the newer machines? If so what machine do you think is the best on the market today? -- E

Dear E -- If you plan to serge regularly, especially with 2-thread or embellishments, then you might want to trade up. Babylock Evolve (has a coverlock) and Babylock Imagine are the top of the line. As I showed in class, they thread the loopers with a puff of air and have a tension dial that not only sets automatically for different kinds of stitches but also senses the different kinds of fabric. If you don't want to spend that kind of money, then look for a Husqvarna 936 computer overlock/coverlock. It has a wider hole for accepting fabric than the Babylocks. Even less spendy is the Janome 634D.

I use the 936 and 634D as my school machines. They've taken a lot of abuse from students and keep on ticking. I don't use the Evolve and Imagine in my school because I keep them too busy myself! They too are workhorses and have not given me an ounce of trouble.

But if you plan to use only 4-thread for wovens or 3-thread for knits and your Pfaff is working well, then stick with it!

2009-03-28T17:42:00.000-07:00

Hi all -- Sharon here. Below is a message from our friend, Meg Okies. She has a great space to sublet. Questions? Give her a call.

"Hello friends, The space hind my shop is available for rent. Of course, I would like to find a great tenant like my previous one. Their business grew so much taht they moved to a space 4 times larger.

Here are the details. . .

1925 NW Overton Street. Street level, back office.

- Modern, well constructed building. Space fills with natural light throughout the day. 3 glass overhead doors.

- Kitchenette. Storage. Finished walls and concrete floors.

- Parking courtyard is lined with bamboo. A single parking space is available.

- 1000 sq. ft. for $1700/month. Equivalent to $19.68/sq ft/year or $1.64 sq ft/month. NNNs not included and average $410/month.

For questions or viewing contact Meg or Ed Okies, 503 224 9443.

INVESTING IN INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

2009-01-15T21:47:00.000-08:00

Visited Joe Payne at Portland’s Rooster Roc SewCo last Saturday. You know, the store at 3427 NE 72nd Ave. behind Annie’s Donuts on Sandy? The building with the big “Commercial Sewing Machines” sign on it?

I love that place and I don’t know why. Car showrooms? Make my skin crawl. Hardware stores? Ho-hum.

But put me in a sewing machine store and this girl drools! Maybe it’s the thought of all that power sewing. 6,600 stitches per minute. That’s fast, baby. Who wants a Jaguar when you can have a Juki? Yeah, that’s why – I need the speed.

What does a sewing girl need in her sewing room? Take a note and send a memo to the men and partners in your life. The holidays are over but you must have another gift-giving occasion soon, right?

I have 13 machines. Six of them are industrials. Three of them are key:

- Single needle lockstitch. Mine is the Juki DDL8700. It has an on-board computer. This means it automatically backstitches, cuts the thread and lifts the presser foot with a kick of my heel on the footplate. I can program it to sew the same length seams quickly and automatically.

Don’t need all these bells and whistles? You can get a Juki DDL8300 – a standard for sewing contractors – for one-fourth the price of mine.

- 3-thread overlock (i.e., serger). You need this for knits so get a pack of ballpoint needles. Mine is the Juki MO3304. The MO6704 has since replaced it.

I also have 5-thread safety stitch for simultaneously stitching and finishing the seams of pants, jackets, blouses. It’s a Juki MO6716. Of all the machines, this is the one I use the most. But if your budget makes you choose, go with the 3-thread. It’s more versatile.

- Blindhemmer. Mine’s a Consew. If you’re using the blindhem foot on your home sewing machine, stop! The Consew is how it’s done in the real world of apparel. You can set the length and depth so no stitches show on the outside.

Yes, other than the Consew, all my machines are Jukis. Brother, Pfaff and Singer Union Special make fine machines. I just trust the Jukis.

Yes, I bought all my machines new. The action is smooth. The machines, problem free.

Yes, I bought almost all my machines from Joe. You can buy off the Internet, just be sure that:

- It comes with a power table. This is the secret behind the speed. These are 20”x48”, so make sure you have the room.

- Shipping is free. The motor is very heavy. Better yet, make sure someone can deliver and set it up for you. You’re going to have plugs, a “fanbelt” and an oil pan that needs the right kind of oil. You need someone who knows how these go together.

- Made in Japan, not China. More reliable.

Commercial machines can be confusing. So many models! And I like to give them a test drive. That’s why I shop at Joe’s.

I’ve known Joe since I came to Portland and he sold me a home sewing machine, the Pfaff 1471. He worked at Montavilla Sewing before the fire and the new store they built at SE 84^th and Stark.

Montavilla sold industrial machines back then. His job was to sell and repair them.

From what I can gather, Joe retired. Montavilla quit selling industrials. So Joe took up the trade and moved it to NE Portland.

The name Rooster Roc? Well, he lives near there in Corbett, Ore. At least I think. You see, Joe knows a lot about machines but he’s not a big talker. When he answers the phone, listen closely. The words he blurts out? “Sewing machines.”

NOTE: My little company, PortlandSewing, will offer industrial machine sewing classes in April so stay tuned. Want to be notified when classes come up? Send me an e-mail.

Cheers -- Sharon

FREELANCE AND CONTRACTORS

2009-01-14T18:25:00.000-08:00

TIMES ARE TOUGH. Folks can't find jobs. Apparel companies are laying off designers.

As a result, a few of my students are going freelance. But they are nervous about what to do and how to make sure they get paid. This is something most design schools don't seem to teach. So I thought I'd share with you what I've been telling them.

Have a written contract. My lawyer husband says there are 3 elements to make a contract. But Sam, one of my business teachers, hammered in my head the five C's of contracts. Here's how he defined them:

1) Consent. A mutual understanding of what the contract covers. E.g., we are talking about a dress.

2) Creation, or offer and acceptance. E.g., I am going to make this dress in this picture for this person. You are going to give me money.

3) Consideration, or an exchange of something of value. E.g., for delivering this dress on May 3, 2009, you are going to pay $1,000.

4) Completion. The dress is delivered on time and the check cleared the bank.

5) Competence. Basically, don't sign a contact with anyone younger than 18 or of doubtful reputation.

Now here are some details. Contracts can cover many subjects, but mine all have these things in common:

- The names and titles of the principals in the contract: The client and the contractor (you!).

- A specific description of the item/work to be done.

- The deliverables. E.g., illustrations could be hard copy on a specific paper, pdfs of a certain resolution and a disc of said pdfs in a specific format. Deliverables can come from the client as well as the contractor.

- Date when the deliverables are due. This should be done in increments at natural progress points, e.g., sketches, draft illustrations for approval, final illustrations.

- The payment. This often is done on the same dates that the deliverables are due with increments and totals given in $numbers and percentages. BTW, save your receipts and time logs!

- Signatures of the principals, along with the titles and date of signature.

You may also be asked to sign a non-disclosure agreement. This just means you won't blab about your client's work. One page is enough. Go on the web to see what such agreements look like.

Bear in mind that most clients want to hear how much a project will cost in total. They don't want to hear a price/hour with the number of hours left open.

Creating such an estimate is tough at first. With luck, you've tracked your hours in doing similar projects for yourself or school.

Don't expect more than minimum wage ($8.40/hr in Oregon) if you don't have the tools or good skills. But if you are experienced, just new, charge $20/hr. Go up as your client list grows. If you can sew a custom-sized lined skirt with zipper, hem and waistband in two hours, you should charge at least $50/hr. Thus your bid for such a project would be $100 -- for the sewing only. Illustrating? Patterning? Consulting about designs and fabrics? Fitting the client once or twice in a muslin? Your price goes up depending on the number of hours you allot for these activities.

Oh, and BTW, if you get a client who says the project is very simple and straightforward but can't give details, don't do it. If s/he starts changing her/his mind, drop 'em. If it's a wedding dress and she starts bringing her bridezilla mom, drop her. If it's a friend/relative, set the stage, give a written estimate with options on the number of fittings/drafts and get money up front when you sign the contract. Then send invoices and exchange money at each deliverable point.

Be brave. Be professional. Believe that your time and skills are worth something.

I'd love to hear your experiences in freelance. Send them in! -- Sharon Blair, studioskb.com and portland sewing.com

NOTE: My friend, Laura, from Nike and I plan to offer apparel business classes Spring 2009. Stay tuned!

Want to buy a sewing machine? Here some advice.

2008-12-27T07:56:00.000-08:00

Meg Okies at Opal here in Portland sent me an e-mail. She says, "I have a friend in the market for a sewing machine. Given your experience with local dealers, I thought you might be able to offer a recommendation. . ."

I think Meg asked me because I have 14 machines. Yes! I'm not ashamed to admit it. No! I don't want a 12-step program. All I want is another machine. I've tried them all -- home sewing and industrials.

Since many of you have holiday cash and may be in the market for a machine, here's what I told Meg:

- For basic sewing on a budget, look at the Janome DC 3018. All the main stitches including 3 nice-looking buttonholes with an easy-to-use foot. And you can get one for about $300.

- If you eventually want to go into heirloom sewing, check out the Vikings. Nobody has more interesting stitches and sewing feet.

- If you eventually want to go the embroidery route, check out the Babylocks. They also have the same buttonhole foot at the Janome.

- If you want to sew apparel, check out the Pfaffs. Don't bother with the entry level machines; pay a little more for the ones with the built-in walking foot (IDT). Warning: the buttonholes suck.

- Berninas also have an excellent automatic buttonholer on their upper level machines. But I've found them to be pricey to buy, add accessories or get repaired.

All these machines are fine for quilting.

- Don't waste your time on Singer, White, Brother or EuroPro. There's a good reason whey these brands are so cheap. You'll spend more time fighting and fixing your machine than you will in sewing.

Where should you go to buy a machine? Montavilla Sewing. They have locations in Gresham and Beaverton. Their main store is at SE 84th and Stark. Many of you know I have taught classes at Montavilla. But I didn't buy my first machine there. After I shopped around, I found Gary Campbell at Montavilla. Thanks to him, I buy most of my machines now at Montavilla.

Yes, Gary is a salesman but he's also straight-talking, knows the machines and will give you a deal. Jason, Linda, Bill and Brett (the guy who owns Montavilla) are great too.

Montavilla gives free sewing machine lessons with purchase and has classes (including my new Fashion Design class). They have great service too.

Go to Common Thread off I-5 south for a Bernina.

Should you buy a machine from a website? Of course! Just make sure it has the operators manual and all the attachments, including a foot pedal and power cord. But know that there will likely be no warranty. The transfer kills it. But you can buy a service agreement from Montavilla. Craig's List is your best bet. Take your project or at least your favorite fabric and test the machine before buying. A pair of jeans that need hemming make an excellent test!

Should you buy a machine from a big box or department store or HSN/QVC or "Singer School Machine" ads? I'd say "no." You're buying it from people who know nothing about it, can't service it and won't help you if you have a problem. The warranty usually is useless. Everyone I know who has gone this route has regretted it and immediately traded their machine for one of the ones I mentioned above.

Where should you buy an industrial machine? I'll save that for another post.

What have been you experiences with sewing machine or buying/servicing a machine? Let me know. I'd love to hear it!

Until then, happy sewing!

Sharon K. Blair

portlandsewing.com