Tuesday, May 24, 2011

In search of the perfect plotter

About two years ago I decided to digitize my patterns.
I'd been drafting patterns for decades. But I decided I wanted to create them by computer myself. Until 2009, the wise and capable Meg Okies had been digitizing them for me. Then she got a job with a local apparel company and no longer had the time.
So upon her advice, I bought Optitex. It's the same computer pattern system used by Nike and many independent designers. The software is great and so much easier to use than Gerber and Lectra -- the systems used by other major apparel companies. We used Gerber at Art Institute.
The problem was the plotter. I asked the makers of Optitex and they sold me an Ioline Studiojet. Their pitch: It links well with Optitex and it prints four times faster than other plotters.
Ioline StudioJet -- a nightmare waste of $$
But instead the Ioline was a nightmare. The plotter cost $6000. What I received came in a box and needed assembly. Ikea has better instructions and more solid construction. The plotter felt like a Lego toy when it was set up.
And it took half a day on line working with Optitex and Ioline to get the program to communicate with the plotter. It wasn't even on the Optitex list of plotters, even though Optitex recommended it.
After two months of trying, I couldn't produce a successful plot:
-- The paper constantly jammed. Even with me standing on the back and Owen standing on the front, holding the edges, the sweep arm clipped and dragged the paper. The plotter then stalled. We had to start the plot over again -- and again without completing the plot. What a waste of paper.
-- While it printed, the line was thin and wobbly. It did not produce a clean, straight, legible line.
To meet my deadlines, I had to send my files out to others for plotting -- for a hefty fee.
After seven months of haggling and a trip to Ioline headquarters in Woodinville, Wash., I finally got a refund. But it was just $4800. And this was while the plotter was still under warranty.
My next step was to talk to Pacific Office Automation in Beaverton. They sold us a duplex unit that allows us to print color and two-sided copies.
After many conversations about the best plotter for the Optitex program, they sold me an HP510 for $3150. Compared to the $6000 for the Ioline, that seemed that a good deal. Plus it looked and felt like a plotter:
-- It was solid and well-built.
-- It produced clean, legible lines.
-- It cut the paper automatically after each plot. On the Ioline, I had to use a pair of scissors.
But it took 2 hours to get the program to talk to the plotter. And there was a 15 minute lag between sending the pattern to the plotter and the plotter starting to print. I could only plot one pattern at a time. Each plot took another 15 minutes. When I asked why, all they could say is "that's just the way it is."
It could take hours to produce eight patterns. And when we have as many as 40 students taking a class and needing a pattern -- well, you can do the math. It could take all week just printing patterns. Argh!
To the rescue came Alyson Clair, former student now colleague and owner of Clair Vintage Inspired.
She recommended Mike Isaac and A&E Imaging in Beaverton. And I have met the love of my life. No, not Mike -- although he's a great guy -- but my new HP T1200.
For $5028, it does what I had expected a plotter to do:
-- It took him about 30 minutes to make the program communicate with the plotter.
-- The plots print instantly. A typical plot takes 30 seconds to print.
-- The T1200 plots multiple copies.
-- It cuts automatically after each plot.
-- The line is strong and clear. And, wow, I can now plot in color!
-- Further, it holds two rolls of paper and senses which width it needs to use based on the width of the plot. And it has a memory. You can reprint past plots directly from the plotter without using the computer.
HP T1200 -- the new love of my life
It's like having a two-year headache, then waking up one day to find it gone. The sun is out. The birds are singing. And it's a wonderful day.

If you have your own plotter sagas to share, please send them my way!

Portland Sewing's new pattern classes start July 25 with our summer camps. We'll offer computer patternmaking again this Fall. Send me note if you want on the mail list.

Song of the day: Baby Lee by Teenage Fanclub

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Latest pix from Garden Party Fashion Show





Our Bryce Black has just been interviewed by you-know-who and may be going to you-know-where.
So here's a chance to see some of his fabulous garb before he appears on the small screen.
Bryce was one of the designers featured at Portland Sewing's April 16 Garden Party Fashion Show. His collection was inspired by the movie and documentary "Grey Gardens."
All photos are from Rachel Warren courtesy of Eden Dawn's Shop Talk blog for Portland Monthly. For more about the show visit the Portland Sewing Facebook page. You'll see a link to the Portland Monthly story and photos from the other designers: Alicia Wood, Alyson Clair, Robin Forsythe, Tiffany Bean, Stephanie D and Vien To.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

I'm on a budget -- what kind of sewing machine should I buy?

Sewing tip
Q. I would like to ask what you think about the Brother sewing machines available at Costco.
A. Thanks for asking. I seriously avoid the Brother, Kenmore, Singer and White machines sold at Costco, Sears, JoAnns and Walmart.
Sadly, they are made of cheap plastic in China. They don't sew well and quickly quit making some stitches -- leading the sewer to think it's her fault when it is the machine. And no one will fix them.
If you're on a budget, you might consider the Babylock Anna http://www.babylock.com/a-line/anna/
It's made of ballistic plastic and metal in Japan or Taiwan and costs about $199.95. Babylocks and Janomes make well-built starter machines. Montavilla Sewing Center and other sewing machine stores carry them

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Praise for Lisa Silveira

Sharon,

I just completed the Learn to Sew series, under Lisa's instruction. It was
such a wonderful and satisfying experience (even the frustrating bits).
Lisa was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, and patient. Lisa seem to have a
knack of providing excellent instruction while still allowing us to make
our beginner mistakes (and then patiently helping us fix them).

While I would like to believe that her attention was specific to me, I
noticed that she offered the same level of attention to everyone in the
class.

I really enjoyed her class and feel lucky to have received such great
instruction.
-- Cheryl

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Fashion show boosts Portland fashion community, women's shelter

Everybody needs a sanctuary in these troubled times – a place of joy and hope for the future.

Saturday, April 16 brings such sanctuary to Portland in the form of a hopeful vision for the city’s fashion business.

On that day, Portland Sewing brings together eight emerging designers for a “Garden Party Fashion Event.”

“Part of our vision is to create a market center for the apparel industry here in Portland,” says Portland Sewing owner Sharon Blair, “We have so much talent here, why not?”

Portland Sewing, 2111 NE 43rd, is a prep and finishing school for those seeking jobs in fashion design and the apparel industry. It offers classes from beginning sewing to patternmaking, fashion design and apparel business – from how to start your own business to hiring sales representatives.

Many of Portland’s designers have studied with Blair, including those featured at the show. Two students, Gretchen Jones and Janeane Marie, have gone on to compete on Project Runway.

Designers featured at the garden party event are:
-- Bryce Black, Grey Gardens. StudioSKB is Sharon Blair’s line of clothing. This year she is turning it around and using the label to launch a designer a year. This year, the designer is Bryce Black. Black soon will graduate from Art Institute. His clothes have been featured in Portland Monthly. His Fall 2011 collection, Grey Gardens, set the tone for the garden party fashion event. It is inspired by the documentary and film about Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis’ relatives.
-- Alicia Wood, Ms. Wood. Wood studied at Parsons before coming to Portland and Portland Sewing. She combines draped kimono sleeves with fabrics such as silk, chiffon and leather. Her line includes obi belts, hats, bags, jewelry and handcrafted shoes. She was named Best Emerging Designer of 2010 at last year’s Portland Fashion Week.
-- Alyson Clair, Clair Vintage Inspired, aims to flatter all womanly figures. Her line ranges from XS to XL and is made primarily of knits. “I take a lot of pride in the fact that my entire line is designed and manufactured right here in Portland, Ore.,” she says.
-- Nyla Jano’s Torrain line of accessories was inspired by a trip to Cambodia. She recycles rice bags into purses, wallets, handbags and backpacks. She wants to encourage style mixed with a global conscience.
-- Robin Forsythe, Estate, sells her clothes at Portland boutiques Union Rose, Sofada and Tumbleweed. Estate upcycles fabrics to create apparel from existing fabrics, preferably made from natural fibers. She chooses subdued colors and textures.
-- Stephanie Dong, Stephanie D Couture. She uses her bachelors degree in apparel design to create ready-to-wear, bridal and custom-made garments. After five years in the business, she is in the process of opening her own boutique.
-- Tiffany Bean, Tiffany Bean. Owner for five years of Mabel and Zora, a boutique in Portland’s Pearl District, Bean is launching her eponymous line at the garden party event. She describes her line as “inspired by Doris Day and James Bond movies. My line has a 1960’s influence, bright colors, bold prints and flattering, feminine silhouettes.”
-- Vien To, Vien. Her well-constructed silhouettes are sold in boutiques in Salem, Ore., and will soon be sold in a boutique of her own. She earned her apparel degree in 2009.
The interior of the sewing school will be turned into an indoor garden featuring bird-friendly plants.
Proceeds go to Peace Garden at Coburn Place Safe Haven – a women’s shelter. Coburn gives women who have suffered from domestic violence and their children a sanctuary where they can start anew.

Saturday, April 16, 2011
Doors open @ 7 pm; Show starts @ 8 pm
$10 in advance; $15 at the door
To buy tickets, go to: Fashion Show Tickets

Friday, March 11, 2011

PRIVATE SEWING LESSONS OFFERED!



Portland Sewing announces
Private Sewing Lessons
Saturdays, 1-5 pm$35/hour



Have a new machine an

d

don't know how to use it? Get to know your machine. Learn all the parts, how to thread it, make a bobbin and solve problems, Find out what thread and needles to use while making a guide to your machine's stitches.Open to all makes and models of machines. All sessions are one-on-one.Book your spot now! Just let us know which Saturday, what time and the make and model of your machine when you register.

Summer Wick shows off the lovely robe she just made in Learn to Sew 2 with instructor Megan Kissee.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

How to de-wrinkle tulle + latest projects




Q. Can you tell me how I can iron tulle if it's all wrinkled? Can I just use a pressing cloth & low
heat? I have never used it in a sewing project before, but I would like to try using it.
A. You are right to be cautious. Tulle can be made from primarily silk, polyester or nylon. If it is a 1/8' mesh and is inexpensive, it's likely to be nylon. And if it's nylon, an iron can melt it. So yes, you can use low heat and a press cloth. But better yet, hang it on a shower curtain in a steamy bathroom or use a steamer.

And now, here are the latest products from some of our students at Portland Sewing:
Margie Yap shows her finished Dietrich dress in rayon knit. She made it in two sessions during Intermediate Sewing: Knits using a Portland Sewing pattern.

Keely DiPietro shows off the back of a jacket she designed (thanks to Fashion Design
class), patterned (in Pattern 3 class) and made (she's in Tailoring now) using fabric consigned from Janeane Marie (former student and Project Runway contestant).


Janet Rivera is proud of the apron she made in Learn to Sew level 1. Students in LTS learn basic survival stitches while making their aprons. They also learn techniques used in the apparel industry while they become friends with fabric, commercial patterns and their sewing machines.