Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Yves - mon amour

Yippee! Today we visit the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petite Palais along the Champs Elysees. Yves died June 1, 2008, but lives on as one of the world’s greatest designers.

The exhibit showed just a fraction of Yves' 5,000 original garments and 15,000 accessories in storage at his Fondation at 5, avenue Marceau in the 6° arrondissement. This is where he had his haute couture house.

Pierre Berge, Yves' business partner, and Carla Bruni, former model and now first lady of France, put together the exhibit.

No touching. No photographs. No moving closer than the guards and electric eyes protecting the garments.

Here you see all of Yves’ firsts: the Trapeze, the Mondrian, the jacket dress, the pantsuit, the tuxedo, the see-through blouse. Yves was among the first to launch a ready-to-wear line with his Rive Gauche (Left Bank) store. Other designers stayed, and for the most part still do, on the more fashionable right bank.

Yves changed fashion, everyone copied him and now these ideas and items are fixtures in most closets. Yes, even the see-through with a bra or cami underneath as you might see today at Forever 21.

His notable firsts:

- The trapeze dress. Part of his first collection for Dior in 1958, it broke away from the wasp-waisted New Look Dior had made famous in the 1950s.

- In 1966, the first ready-to-wear house set up by a couture designer.

- Le Smoking, a 1968 tuxedo jumpsuit styled after men's overalls. He famously sued Ralph Lauren over Lauren's copy of this garment and won. Again, a first. No one wins such a case since you can't patent clothing. Yves, however, won in French court, not in the U.S.

- With the Mondrian dress in 1966 he brought art into fashion. He later reprised VanGogh's Irises in a sequined and beaded jacket.- Safari jackets, tight pants (precursor to leggings) and thigh-high boots in the 1960s

- Pant suits, peasant blouses, bolero jackets and smocks in the 1970s.

- See through chiffon blouses. His models wore them bare-breasted. We wear them over camisoles.

All of this shocking, eye-opening and controversial when Yves first created them. All of this we take for granted today as if it always existed.I bought the book from the exhibit. I'll be happy to share it with you :)

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

FREELANCE AND CONTRACTORS

TIMES ARE TOUGH.  Folks can't find jobs.  Apparel companies are laying off designers.
As a result, a few of my students are going freelance.  But they are nervous about what to do and how to make sure they get paid.  This is something most design schools don't seem to teach.  So I thought I'd share with you what I've been telling them.
Have a written contract.  My lawyer husband says there are 3 elements to make a contract.  But Sam, one of my business teachers, hammered in my head the five C's of contracts.  Here's how he defined them:
1) Consent.  A mutual understanding of what the contract covers.  E.g., we are talking about a dress.
2) Creation, or offer and acceptance.  E.g., I am going to make this dress in this picture for this person.  You are going to give me money.
3) Consideration, or an exchange of something of value.  E.g., for delivering this dress on May 3, 2009, you are going to pay $1,000.
4) Completion.  The dress is delivered on time and the check cleared the bank.
5) Competence.  Basically, don't sign a contact with anyone younger than 18 or of doubtful reputation.
Now here are some details.  Contracts can cover many subjects, but mine all have these things in common:
- The names and titles of the principals in the contract:  The client and the contractor (you!).
- A specific description of the item/work to be done.
- The deliverables.  E.g., illustrations could be hard copy on a specific paper, pdfs of a certain resolution and a disc of said pdfs in a specific format.  Deliverables can come from the client as well as the contractor.
- Date when the deliverables are due.  This should be done in increments at natural progress points, e.g., sketches, draft illustrations for approval, final illustrations.
- The payment.  This often is done on the same dates that the deliverables are due with increments and totals given in $numbers and percentages.  BTW, save your receipts and time logs!
- Signatures of the principals, along with the titles and date of signature.
You may also be asked to sign a non-disclosure agreement.  This just means you won't blab about your client's work.  One page is enough.  Go on the web to see what such agreements look like.
Bear in mind that most clients want to hear how much a project will cost in total.  They don't want to hear a price/hour with the number of hours left open.
Creating such an estimate is tough at first.  With luck, you've tracked your hours in doing similar projects for yourself or school.
Don't expect more than minimum wage ($8.40/hr in Oregon) if you don't have the tools or good skills.  But if you are experienced, just new, charge $20/hr.  Go up as your client list grows.  If you can sew a custom-sized lined skirt with zipper, hem and waistband in two hours, you should charge at least $50/hr.  Thus your bid for such a project would be $100 -- for the sewing only.  Illustrating?  Patterning?  Consulting about designs and fabrics?  Fitting the client once or twice in a muslin?  Your price goes up depending on the number of hours you allot for these activities.
Oh, and BTW, if you get a client who says the project is very simple and straightforward but can't give details, don't do it.  If s/he starts changing her/his mind, drop 'em.  If it's a wedding dress and she starts bringing her bridezilla mom, drop her.  If it's a friend/relative, set the stage, give a written estimate with options on the number of fittings/drafts and get money up front when you sign the contract.  Then send invoices and exchange money at each deliverable point.
Be brave.  Be professional.  Believe that your time and skills are worth something.

I'd love to hear your experiences in freelance.  Send them in! -- Sharon Blair, studioskb.com and portland sewing.com

NOTE:  My friend, Laura, from Nike and I plan to offer apparel business classes Spring 2009.  Stay tuned!